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HALDIBARI:
This picturesque camping
spot, just 5 kms away from Deban, lies across the Noa-Dehing River and can be
reached by boat. An overnight stay here is enjoyable experience in jungle
camping.
BULBULIA:
This is an enchanting
camping site overlooking a large aquifer and derives its name from its several
natural springs.
Covering almost 2000km2,
Namdapha, one of India’s largest National Parks, contains some of Asia’s most
luxuriant and poorly explored forest and contains some of the region’s most
sough-after birds.
Namdapha National Park is
located a few kilometres away from Miao and along the turbulent Noa-Dehing
River.
Namdapha was declared as Tiger
Reserve by the Government in 1983. Namdapha harbours all four Asian large cats:
Snow Leopard, Common Leopard, Clouded Leopard and Tiger; and Hoolock Gibbon and
Asiatic Elephant.
Little known birds here include
Grey Peacock-Pheasant, White-cheeked Partridge, the diminutive
Pied Falconet, Ward’s Trogon, Oriental Bay-Owl, Rufous-necked
Hornbill, Pale-headed and Great Slaty Woodpeckers, Silver-breasted
and Long-tailed Broadbills, Blue-naped Pitta,Black-breasted Thrush,
Sapphire Flycatcher, Collared Treepie; Green Cochoa,
Coral-billed&Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Spotted Wren-Babbler;
Rufous-necked, Chestnut-backed& Rufous-vented Laughingthrushes,
Black-browed & Rufous-headed Parrotbill, the extremely localised
Snowy-throated Babbler, Rufous-throated Fulvetta and the aptly named
Beautiful Nuthatch.
It is not frequented by birdwatchers due to its inaccessibility, however with
proper planning, it is possible to enjoy this most unusual of the Indian
National Parks. Though it has more tigers and other wildlife than many more
famous reserves, it is so well preserved that it is actually difficult to see
anything here. The only large animal we managed to see was a Large Indian Civet.
Birds seen here during our
trip:
Great Cormorant, Little Egret,
Indian Pond-Heron, White-winged Duck, Common Merganser, Pallid Harrier,
Pied Harrier, Black Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Pied
Falconet, White-cheeked Partridge, Kalij Pheasant, Grey
Peacock-Pheasant, Ibisbill, Small Pratincole, River Lapwing, Wood
Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Spotted Dove, Pin-tailed Pigeon, Mountain
Imperial-Pigeon, Common Hawk-Cuckoo, Mountain Scops-Owl, Jungle Owlet, Jungle
Nightjar, Himalayan Swiftlet, Red-headed Trogon, Crested Kingfisher, Pied
Kingfisher, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Dollarbird, Great Hornbill,
Brown Hornbill, Rufous-necked Hornbill, Great Barbet, Lineated
Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Blue-eared Barbet, White-browed Piculet, Lesser
Yellownape, Greater Yellownape, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Greater Flameback,
Pale-headed Woodpecker, Bay Woodpecker, Long-tailed Broadbill, Blue-naped Pitta,
Rufous-winged Bushlark, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Olive-backed
Pipit, Large Cuckoo-Shrike, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Short-billed Minivet,
Scarlet Minivet, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Red-whiskered, Red-vented Bulbul,
White-throated Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Blue-winged Leafbird, Golden-fronted
Leafbird, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Common Iora, Blue Whistling-Thrush,
Rusty-bellied Shortwing, Lesser Shortwing, Zitting Cisticola, White-browed
Shortwing, Swamp Prinia, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Slaty-bellied Tesia,
Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler, Yellow-browed Warbler, Greenish Warbler, Large-billed
Leaf-Warbler, Blyth’s Leaf-Warbler, Grey-hooded Warbler, Grey-cheeked Warbler,
White-spectacled Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Rufous-faced Warbler,
Yellow-bellied Warbler, Striated Grassbird, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Slaty-blue
Flycatcher, Sapphire Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Rufous-bellied Niltava,
Pale-blue Flycatcher, Pygmy Blue-Flycatcher, Grey-headed
Canary-Flycatcher, Red-flanked Bluetail, White-capped Redstart, Plumbeous
Redstart, White-tailed Robin, Blue-fronted Robin, Slaty-backed Forktail,
Green Cochoa, Common Stonechat, Yellow-bellied Fantail, White-throated
Fantail, White-crested Laughingthrush, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Greater
Necklaced Laughingthrush, Rufous-vented Laughingthrush, Spot-throated
Babbler, Red-billed Scimitarbill, Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Streaked
Wren-Babbler, Pygmy-Wren-Babbler, Golden Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler,
Snowy-throated Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Red-billed Leiothrix,
Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, White-hooded Babbler,
Rusty-fronted Barwing, Red-tailed Minla, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Rufous-throated
Fulvetta, Nepal Fulvetta, Beautiful Sibia, Long-tailed Sibia,
Striated Yuhina, Whiskered Yuhina, Black-chinned Yuhina, White-bellied Yuhina,
Black-breasted Parrotbill, Rufous-headed Parrotbill, Yellow-browed
Tit, Sultan Tit, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Beautiful Nuthatch,
Black-throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter, Plain Flowerpecker, Black-hooded
Oriole, Maroon Oriole, Grey-backed Shrike, Ashy Drongo, Lesser Racket-tailed
Drongo, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Green Magpie, Grey Treepie, Collared
Treepie, Large-billed Crow, White-vented Myna, Jungle Myna, Common Myna,
Asian Pied Starling, Chestnut-tailed Starling.
DAILY LOG
Thursday 20 February
Our trip started with an
Austria Airlines flight from Brussels via Vienna to Delhi. We landed at the
airport around midnight (3½ hours time difference with the Netherlands), where
Major General (Retired) Shandy Gupta already was waiting for us. We were
transferred to Harry’s Guesthouse, where we spent the night.
Friday 21 February
Next morning we left Delhi at
10.30 for our three hours spectacular flight along the southern flank of the
Himalayas to Guwahati, the bustling hub of northeast India in Assam. Peter Lobo
was waiting for us at the airport. En route to our hotel in Guwahati we had our
first lifer of the trip, a grotesque Greater Adjutant languidly flapping across
the highway, one of the world’s rarest storks.
After we had put our luggage in
the plush Raj Mahal Hotel in dusty, noisy Guwahati we had enough time to visit
the local fish market, where we had excellent views of 23 huge Greater
Adjutants, picking through the rubbish. We then drove to a marshy area in the
centre of the town and here we spent the rest of the afternoon noting amongst
others White-breasted Waterhen, Dark-throated Thrush, Common Tailorbird, Brown
Shrike and White-vented Myna.
Saturday 22 February
After a refreshing night’s
sleep at the Raj Mahal Hotel we started early on our second day and after a
quick visit to the fish market, counting no less than 45 Greater Adjutants, we
headed eastwards to Kaziranga.
An easy crossing of Assam
afforded us some birding time and amongst the numerous tea plantations there
were roadside paddies and marshes producing amongst others Black-headed Ibis,
Woolly-necked Stork, Lesser Adjutant and Black-shouldered Kite. A coffee stop
was notable for Purple Sunbird and we also had good views of an acrobatic male
Pied Harrier quartering a stubble field.
In the early afternoon we
arrived at Kaziranga and checked into our very comfortable rooms in the Wild
Grass Lodge.
After a late lunch we ventured
out from our hotel to the nearby tea estate. Quite a variety of birds frequented
this attractive area amongst them Red Junglefowl, Asian Barred Owlet, Lineated
Barbet, Smoky Warbler, Rosy Pipit, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Daurian Redstart,
Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush and Striped Tit-Babbler.
Sunday 23 February
After a comfortable night at
the lodge we had a pre-breakfast excursion in the tea plantation. Here we added
Yellow-footed Pigeon, Black-rumped Flameback, Scaly Thrush, a group of noisy
Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, Crimson Sunbird, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker and
Black-hooded Oriole to our trip list. Best of all however was the telescope view
of a beautiful male Siberian Rubythroat in the top of the tea bushes, which
turned out to be the only one on our trip.
After breakfast we headed by
open-topped jeep and an armed guard to the little-visited eastern range of
Kaziranga, probably the most attractive area of the reserve and certainly the
most productive for birding.
Sohola Beel, a large shallow
wetland, was teeming with large flocks of waterfowl. Wintering Bar-headed Geese
made up the bulk of these flocks but there were also plenty of ducks, including
Cotton Pygmy-geese and Ferruginous Ducks, however we did not find our “target
duck”, Falcated Duck.
On the lake were groups of the
localised and endangered Spot-billed Pelicans and along the edge were small
groups of wintering Grey-headed Lapwings and further back, in the first trees,
both the majestic Pallas's and Grey-headed Fish Eagles and a Peregrine Falcon.
We also had good views of a soaring White-eyed Buzzard, Greater Spotted Eagle
and Imperial Eagle.
In the afternoon we visited the
western part of the reserve. The elephant grass was rather long here and large
areas were burned off this time of year. Despite the fire and the smoke we saw
many birds amongst them Black-necked Stork, the vociferous Swamp Francolin,
Kalij Pheasant, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Green Imperial-Pigeon, Greater Coucal,
Savanna Nightjar, Chestnut-capped Babbler and a large group of the very
restricted-range species, Spot-winged Starling.
Large mammals were everywhere
in Kaziranga and we had great views of Indian Rhinoceros, Asiatic Elephant, Wild
Water Buffalo, Swamp Deer and Hog Deer. We came across an Indian Rhinoceros by
the roadside – just a wonderful photo opportunity - although our guard warned us
not to approach the rhino too closely. To emphasise his words he showed us his
horrible scars from a rhino attack three years ago.
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