It was a nice walk along the river occupied with Brown Dippers, Plumbeous Redstarts and White-capped Water-redstarts. The trail has a gradual gradient all the way through coniferous and broad leafed forests and it took about 5-6 hrs to reach our destination at Rola. During the trek we spotted about 45 species. We had a nice overnight sleep in tented camp and the food was splendid. On initiative of Hans Meltofte the porters had to bring 34 large 1 litre beer glassbottles all the way to 3000 meters. As most of us feared the prospect of getting up and out of the tents to pee during the night, we only managed to drink half of the load. In the end the rest ended as a tip to the drivers who brought us back to New Delhi..

09 Apr: Birding trek Rolla, 2040 m - Shilt, 2900 m - 04 Kms

Just after breakfast we commenced a short but very steep trek along a difficult and challenging route. First we had to cross a slippery wet rock using a wire, as the trail had been washed away the previous week. This crossing caused us a marry dance, but worse one of the porters slipped over and fell down 25 meters and presumably broke his lag. Fortunately we managed to pass this crossing and thereafter we were rewarded with a sighting of Himalayan Goral (Naemorhedus goral) a nice goat with horns. Thereafter we climbed for about 04 hrs uphill to reach Shilt, through coniferous and broad leafed forests with occasional meadows. Just before we reached a meadow we saw a Monal flying beautifully out of the trees and we could see all its splendour as it took a big swing across an opening among the trees.

We had a nice long rest in a meadow where Lammergeiers, Golden Eagles and Himalayan Griffons came close to us in full display and gratitude. In the afternoon we went out along the ridge behind the camp in order to look for Monals. We were not disappointed as 12 Monals was spotted during that afternoon. Shilt is a grassy meadow surrounded by trees and rhododendron but few flowers appeared as the snow had just disappeared. We had a beautiful view in full moonlight across the valley towards the snow covered mountains reaching highs of 4000 meters on the other side of the valley in full moonlight.

10 Apr: Birding around Shilt, 2900 m

At dawn we went downhill to look for pheasants including the Western Tragopan. Unfortunately an old man who knew exactly the whereabouts of the en endangered species was unable to help us out, because he became too ill from advanced lung cancer. To make things worse Peter had lent the tape of the call of the bird to someone who had forgotten to return it. Consequently, we had to find it without any help. We never got close to the elusive species, as it prefers to rest in an inaccessible spot in thick dwarf bamboo in steep ravines. It is however a very sought out bird. So much as an Australian guy by the name John Penhallurick went to the GHNP just as we left to seek it out during a planned 12 days stay. Peter Lobo will try to locate the Tragopan with the help a priest in another valley next May. If successful, I will return to this marvellous place to see it.

Later in the season the snow disappears and the flowers will come out in full bloom, so it would be worthwhile to return to find the Tragopan and other species at a higher elevation. Very few tourist venture into this place as no overnight facilities exists. However, I would rather camp than put up with dirty overcrowded huts in touristy Nepal.

After breakfast we walked along a ridge through bamboo and forests. More Monals were spotted sitting on a cliff face, but the highlights were a flock of Collared and Spot-winged Grosbeaks in a conefer tree spotted by Hans. Ebbe was enlighten by a sighting of a flock of Plain Mountain-finches, which was a top bird for him. I was thrilled by a view of Red-eared Buntings and several rosefinches in a bamboo thicket. We continued birding along the same ridge east to Chowder for 4 hours through mixed forest and enroute we had hot cooked lunch at a sacred site. In the afternoon we returned back to Rolla in 02 hours for overnight in camp at Shilt.

11 Apr: Birding trek Shilt, 2900 - Chowder, 2800 - Rolla, 2040 - 10 km.

Our local guide never gave up on the tragopan, so consequently some of us ventured back again to the spot were I had heard it the previous morning. Hans was keen just to hear it, but the local guide believed it had moved further away, so we rushed further down the valley. Unfortnately, no Tragopan called and if it did, it would have been impossible to locate it in the thick scrub below. Hans Meltofte was very disappointed not to hear it, but I think we all was frustrated with the unluckly cercumstances. Additionally, I later got a report from John Penhallurick from Canberra. He saw it a week later. Apparently, the bird calls more in overcast weather conditions. It is also more difficult to see it when travelling with 7 people who are keen to see the elusive Western Tragopan. As a bonus we spotted a few koklas pheasants and I got a view of the Bar-tailed Treeecreeper. Ole Lemming who likes to venture out independently photographed a pair of Himalayan Woodpeckers and a Minivet. He also saw a White-cheeked Nuthatch. In the afternoon we returned downhill back to Rolla.

12 Apr: Birding trek Rolla - Sai Ropa ( 15 Kms). Drive to Kullu ( 36 Kms)

We returned the same way back towards the road at Sai Roopa during a 4 hrs birding walk. The highlights were a flock of 3 species of Laughingthrushes in a rhododendron tree. Among these we all saw a few Variegated Laughing-thrushes. A young pair of Kalij Pheasants with blue tail confused us. We first thought it was Koklass pheasants. After a tea break we packed the jeeps and drove to Kullu. While were away, the drivers who are used to the citylife in Delhi made a lot of friends is the village and promised to return. We arrived at the luxury Apple Valley Resort in Kullu around 5 PM.

13 Apr: Kullu -Delhi 530 Kms

We drove back to Delhi in 2 jeeps for 10 hrs, but at a different pace. As result only Jørgen, Ole and Bodil were lucky enough to spot the Rock-Bushquail which stayed in the from of the car for several minutes. We had however a farewell dinner in a restaurant nearby, but it did not turn out to be a happy event for Hans & John as they got Delhi Belly from this meal. The reason for tis was an Ice cream, a sure way to go belly up in India!. After dinner Ole, jørgen and Bodil went to the airport to board departure flight, while the four people due to continue on Eastern Himalayan trip stayed overnight at Jukasu Inn.

Part 2: 11 days Eastern Himalayas

This region comprising Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Lava and The Singelila range, nestles in the lush green midranges with a stunning backdrop of towering snow capped peaks, topped by the crowning glory of the 8534 Meters high Mount Khangchendzonga. It has been blessed by nature. Fast flowing rivers, terraced fields, vast tracts of protected forests with exotic flora, Buddhist Monasteries, miles of tea gardens, colonial buildings, exotic bazaars, are all there to explore.

Out of the 11 days in this region we spent 02 days for entry and exit, and spent a day birding in the foothills in the Mahananda Wild Life Sanctuary, followed by 02 full days birding around Lava forests. Thereafter we undertook a 05 days birding trek in the Singelila Range, and finally a day at Darjeeling.

DESCRIPTION OF LOCALITY

The Mahananda River Wild Life Sanctuary Located just outside Siliguri, it is well known for its large population of Elephants. As a result birders have not yet explored this area. T he deciduous forests and riverine belt provides habitat for a rich variety of birds in the sanctuary. A river runs through the park and is a good venue to do birding. Lesser Pratincoles nest in the riverbed and large yellow orchids growth on the trees. We have made short birding forays over one morning, and found that the forests were teeming with bird life. Some of the birds we saw: Black Stork, Black Baza, Besra, Greater Coucal, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Black hooded Oriole, Indian roller, Green billed Malkhoa, Red Jungle Fowl, Indian Grey Hornbill, Himalayan Griffon, Jungle, various Bee eaters, Barbets, Common Hill Myna and more.

Kalimpong, is an exotic town of beautiful people, mystical and enchanting? Ruled by Bhutan for 155 years, and annexed by the British in 1865, it was developed as a centre of the wool trade with Tibet. This trade flourished until the Chinese took control of Tibet, in the 1950's The Lepchas, who were the original inhabitants, were subjected to Bhutanese, Tibetan, British, and Nepalese influences. A gentle and docile people, they have almost lost their identity, and are now called "The vanishing tribe". However history has left behind a fascinating ethnic blend of Lepcha, Bhutia and Nepalese people. Here Buddhism rubs shoulders with Christianity, Hinduism, and Islam. Gumpas, churches, temples, monasteries, monks and missionaries; all coexist in a jovial and tolerant society. Flower and orchid nurseries, colonial bungalows, churches of the "Raj", and Buddhist monasteries are there to explore. A quaint bustling bazaar, is a Pandora's box of surprises? Kalimpong is a wanderer's delight. Buddhist tankhas, hand beaten silver, Bhutanese weaves, Chinese lamps, hand crafted paper, Lepcha daggers, Nepali Khukaris and Buddhist masks, are some of the shopping attractions. The town is located at an elevation of 1200-1400 m. On this tour we will be based at Kalimpong for birding in the Lava area

Lava is the prime birding destination in this region,. It is a small bazaar once a halting place for caravans on the trade routes to Bhutan and Sikkim. It is now a forest Village with a Buddhist Monastery amidst a sea of evergreen forests at an elevation of 2100 m. Surrounded by very large tracts of protected forests ranging in elevation between 1600 and 2400 m, it includes the remote and uninhabited Neora National Park, and it is a bird watcher’s delight. Some of the most sought after and least known birds of India can be spotted here. Satyr Tragopan, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Rufous throated and Spotted Wren Babblers, Yellow- throated Fulvetta, Red– faced Liocichla, Cutia, Rust- belied Shortwing, Blue- fronted Robin and long –billed Thrush, are some of the rare birds.

The Sandakphu Ridge of the Singelila Range at an elevation of 3600 m provides good birding in Bamboo, Oak, Silver fir, birch, and Rhododendron forests between 2000 and 3000 m elevation. There is also the attraction of breathtaking views of KhangchenDzonga, and glimpses on Mount Everest, apart from the delightful forests. The National park is situated along the deforested Nepal. We spotted 30 cattle which had entered into the park illegally. Most of the accommodation and teahouses are found on the Nepalese side of the jeep track. It is necessary to register at the border/immigration office in Maneybhanjhan. He trek took us from 2000 meters to 3650 meters along a 30 km. long jeep track, but we climbed more than 2100 meter as we descended 500 meters I altitude from Magma to Garibas. The huts were primitive, but fortunately we could stay in the more comfortable Wildlife Guest House at Sandakapu. The best species seen: Cinereous and Himalayan Vulture, Satyr Tragopan, Crimson-breasted & Darjeeling Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Streak-breasted & Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly-breasted & Rufous throated Wren Babbler, Black-throated Parrotbill, Red-capped Babbler, Black-faced, Striated, Spotted and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Slender-billed Scimitar-babbler Whiskered, Stripe-throated & Rufous-vented Yuhina, Golden & White-browed & Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Large-billed, Ashy-throated, Buff-barred, Blyth’s & Lemon-rumped Warbler, Blue-fronted Redstart, Little Forktail, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, White-collared Blackbird, Rufous-breasted Accentor, Green-backed, Grey-crested, Rufous-vented, Rufous-fronted & Yellow-browed Tit, White-tailed Nuthatch, Hoary-throated Barwing, Plain Mountain Finch, Edwards, Dark-breasted & White-browed Rosefinch.

DARJEELING: The town derived its present name from the Tibetan Dorjee-Ling, meaning Place of the thunderbolt. It is located in the state of West Bengal. It has a population of 200 000, comprising an ethnic mix of Nepali, Bhutia, Lepcha and some Bengalis. Common language is Nepali. Until the nineteenth century, it was a part of the kingdom of Sikkim, but was overrun by the Nepalese. The British intervened in 1835 to broker peace and in return pressurized the Sikkim raja, to gift Darjeeling, to the British for an annual sum of Rs 3000. Finally in 1861, after a short war, the British annexed Darjeeling and the adjoining territory upto the Rangit River. The British developed Darjeeling, due to its strategic location, as a base for future trade with Tibet. In early 1840’s, tea plantations were developed, extensively, and Nepali labor was imported. This resulted in a change in the demographic balance, with Nepalese gradually gaining ground over others. In 1989 after a violent agitation, for formation of a Gorkhaland state, the Darjeeling District, was granted autonomy, under a Gorkha Hill Council, with limited powers. It remains a part of Bengal state Darjeeling retains it colonial flavor, and the region grows the best quality of tea. The fantastic views of the great snow capped ranges, is a major tourist attraction, along with Buddhist monasteries and exotic bazaar. The Zoological Park, the botanical gardens and Tiger hill were good birding sites in the past, but are now too crowded. We saw 200 vehicles on return from Tiger Hill. We went to the wildlife sanctuary instead to see Yellow-billed Blue Magpai, Large Hawk, Common & Oriental and Large Hawkcuckoo Cuckoos, Himalayan swift let, close views various Babblers & Laughingthrushes and Buff-barred Leaf-warbler, and other colourful species seen. All sites were approachable by jeep with little walking.

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