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Birding Trip Report

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Sikkim and West Bengal, India 28 March -15 April 2004
Report compiled by Roger Ahlman

ITINERARY

Day 1 (28/3)
Predawn arrival at Calcutta. After the normal procedures at the airport, we hired two taxis to take us to EM Bye Pass and we soon found our main target here, the Bengal Bushlark. Rather poor wetland birding produced some widespread species. Midday flight to Bagdogra in the West Bengal where we were met by our guide Peter Lobo from the Gurudongma tours and treks. A short drive to nearby Siliguri and check in at our hotel. In the afternoon we did a short drive north to the outskirts of Mahananda WS to a place called Sorea to get some introduction to the birds. Night in Siliguri.
Highlights: Bengal Bushlark in Calcutta and Stork-billed Kingfisher at Sorea.

 
 

Day 2 (29/3)
We set of at dawn to bird the western part of of Mahananda WS. We were held up by a small bridge just inside the park by lots of birds (and breakfast). Rather slow birding throughout the day.
Highlights: Great Hornbills, Black Bazas, Collared Falconet, Pale-chinned and Blue-throated Flycatchers, Spot-winged Starling.

Day 3 (30/3)
We birded the southern part of the park, starting off in style with a pair of Red-naped ibises. Cuckoos were plentiful in the morning with four heard Chestnut-winged cuckoos. None came in to playback unfourtunately. During the hot midday hours we walked along the Teesta riverbed. Overall rather poor birding today too.
Highlights: Black Ibis 3, Chestnut-winged Cuckoos, Great Thickknees, Lesser Adjutant, Orange-headed Thrush and Pale-billed Flowerpecker.

Spot-winged Starlings at Mahananda
Spot-winged Starlings at Mahananda

 

Day 4 (31/3)

We started at dawn and drove for an hour, stopping for our first Black-backed forktails, before reaching the lower parts of the foothills where we had breakfast. From here at about 250 m we walked slowly uphill to about 600 m where the bamboo started to be a prominent part of the vegetation and we started to see more birds. Best so far was without any doubt a pair of Pale-headed woodpecker. In the late afternoon we drove and made just a few stops, one of them produced the bird of the trip for most of us - gripping views of a pair of Long-tailed broadbills! Night in the charming guesthouse in Samtar. Here is where we first came across the local drink ‘chang’ which is various herbs in a can with hot water. This brew is fermenting in a similar way to beer. You simply add some hot water as you drink and you´ll have a full glass! We did however prefer ordinary beer.
Highlights: Rufous- and Pale-headed Woodpeckers, Long-tailed Broadbill, Sapphire Flycatcher and White-browed Scimitar-babbler.

Day 5 (1/4)
Birding along the road at Samtar forest about 20 mins from the guesthouse. Very good birding around 1000 m with many flocks. Late afternoon was spent at Kalimpong ridge. Night in Kalimpong at Gurudongma guest house. We met General Jimmy Singh here and he noted that Anders had birthday today. He had a bottle of Jonny Walker Black Label 12 Yrs which he had been given thirteen years earlier by the King of Bhutan when he was working there. He gave us this bottle to celibrate! Thank you Mr Singh!
Highlights: Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Black Eagles, Cutia, Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Rusty-fronted Barwing.

Day 6 (2/4)
A very nice walk on the Pipeline trail near Lava through excellent forest. This trail follows a gently sloping water pipeline and you walk for 11 kms and end the walk with a steep uphill for 20 mins to the main road between Lava and Kalimpong.
Highlights: Red-headed Trogon male, Hodgson´s Redstart, Spotted Forktail, all three Tesias, Black-faced Warbler, Cutia.

Day 7 (3/4)
Lava and birding along the track up to Neora. Rather poor birding but by some houses we found or first Scaly-breasted wren-babbler and Golden Bush-robin. In the morning and late afternoon we birded along the main road 6-12 kms before Lava coming from Kalimpong.
Highlights: Tickell’s Thrush, Chestnut Thrush, Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler in the open.

Day 8 (4/4)
Long drive from Kalimpong to Manebhanjang, where the Sandakphu trek starts. We had to change vehicles to Landrovers from the 60s. We drove about halfway to Sandakphu to the Gairibas lodge at 2500 m. Fog for most of the afternoon and this wheather was to be the prevailing wheather for the rest of the trip unfortunately. Good birding during the spells with clear wheather.
Highlights: Satyr Tragopan male seen, Kalij Pheasants, Green Shrike-babbler, Hoary-throated Barwing, stunning Fire-tailed Sunbirds, Collared Grosbeaks in flocks.

Day 9 (5/4)
Drive from Gairibas to Sandakphu at 3660 m with several birding stops/walks. Last 4 kms up to Sandakphu was very steep and some in the group prefered to study the inside of their eyelids. After a fine morning at Gairibas we had fog for most of the day.
Highlights: Darjeeling Woodpeckers, Plain-backed Thrush, Slender-billed Scimitar-babblers, Maroon-backed Accentor and Blanford´s Rosefinches.

Day 10 (6/4)
Sandakphu all day. We were happy to have a clear morning with a spectacular view of the Kanchenzonga mountain. Birding along the track north of Sandakphu for a few kilometers with some sidetrails. During the late afternoon we had a hailstorm. During the night some snow fell and the wheather was rather miserable.
Highlights: Blood Pheasant, Indian blue Robin, Red-headed Bullfinch, White-winged Grosbeak and Gold-naped Finch.

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Bird photographs by Yashodhan Bhatia,

Ronald Saldino,  Niels Poul Dryer, Ketil Knudsen
Kalypso Adventures & Gurudongma Team
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