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Birding Trip Report

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Sikkim and West Bengal, India 28 March -15 April 2004
Report compiled by Roger Ahlman

Day 11 (7/4)
After the nights bad wheather we had a fine but cold morning and birded around the village and saw lots of things. Donīt miss the rubbish dump, it had several accentors and rosefinches. Most of the morning was a raher boring steep downhill walk for 6 kms to Kalaphokri partly in rain. Afternoon was also poor birding along the track, mostly in fog.
Highlights: Blood Pheasant, White-throated Redstart, Dark-breasted and Dark-rumped Rosefinches.

Day 12 (8/4)
Early start from Kalaphokri and a fine walk to Gairibas. We started on the track but about halfway we took a sidetrack that was not a shortcut but provided excellent birding with highlights like Black-throated parrotbills and Golden-breasted fulvettas etc. The afternoon was completely spoiled to rain and fog.
Highlights: Slender-billed and Streak-breasted Scimitar-babblers, Western crowned Warblers, Black-headed Shrike-babblers, Fulvous Parrotbills and Gold-naped Finch.

 

 
 

Day 13 (9/4)
Early start and hard walk from Gairibas at 2500 m up to Tumlin at 3000 m. Rather poor birding mainly due to poor wheather but the uphill took itīs toll to us as well. Afternoon was completly spoiled to rain and storm. For some in the group this was welcome as a cold grazed in the group. The habitat around Tumlin is all gone and it would probably be better to spend another night at Gairibas where birding is very good. Food and accomodation at Tumlin is good though.
Highlights: Satyr Tragopan and some of the earlier highlights.

Day 14 (10/4)
12 kms walk from Tumlin to Manebhanjang mostly in fog. Afternoon was long driving to Hilley in Sikkim and camping.
Highlights: Brown Parrotbill, White-creasted and Greater necklaced Laughingthrush

Day 15 (11/4)
All day birding along the road back from Hilley, partly in fog. Good birding in a nice forest that reminds a bit of Lava. Broad-billed warbler was found to be rather common here once we had learned and recorded the song.
Highlights: White-browed Shortwing, Broad-billed Warblers, Grey-sided and Scaly Laughingthrushes, Golden-breasted Fulvettas.

Day 16 (12/4)
Walk from Hilley up to the top at Varsey Rhodondendron Sanctury, about 4 kms on a good trail. Unfortunately this beautiful place was covered in fog for most of the day with only short clear spells. Very nice with all the blooming Rhododendro trees. Camping at the top. During the early night we had rain, hail, strong winds and a good thunderstorm. The food, rice with eight side dishes warmed.
Highlights: Snowy-browed Flycatcher and good views of White-browed Shortwings and several Scaly-breasted Wren-babblers, Black-throated Parrotbills and Crimson-browed Finches
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Day 17 (13/4)
Walk from Varsey at about 3000 m down to Soreng at 1500 m. This walk was said to be 9 kms but it felt longer. First part goes through good forest then a few kilometres through open/ cultivated land and last part through secondary forest. Afternoon was driving to Pelling and unproductive afternoon birding around the Pemyangtse monastry. Very nice with a shower after nine days without washing.
Highlights: White-tailed Robin, Broad-billed Warbler, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker and Goldnaped Finch.

Day 18 (14/4)
Khecheoperi lake in the morning. This small lake held the surprice of the trip - a Black-necked crane that later in the day, when more tourists came, decided to leave. This bird is a major raity in India. Another of the best birds of the trip was seen here by those of us who didnīt mind the masses of leeches that lives here. Gripping views of a Black-tailed crake. Another bird with very few records in India. After some stops along the way back to Pelling we made another try around the monastry for Red-faced Leocichla in vain and it soon started to rain and we aborted this effort.
Highlights: Apart from the above mentioned species we also saw Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Tickellīs Thrush, Yellow-cheeked Tit, White-rumped Munia.

Day 19 (15/4)
A day of transport. We started of the morning in style though when we made a short roadside stop at a site Peter had for Rufous-necked laughingthrush and within a minute we had them on the list. As a bonus we saw a pair of Rusty-sided scimitar-babblers feeding on the road. When we came to Bagdogra at about 11.30 we found out that the airline had changed our flight to Delhi and put it almost two hours earlier! After a rush through the numerous security controls we just made onto the plane. In Delhi we had 9 hours to kill at the airport before our European flight.

A grand view over the Teesta river
A grand view over the Teesta river

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Bird photographs by Yashodhan Bhatia,

Ronald Saldino,  Niels Poul Dryer, Ketil Knudsen
Kalypso Adventures & Gurudongma Team
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